3- to 7-Day Tusitiri Dhow Sailing, Lamu to Kiwayu

Day 2: Explore Takwa and Lamu Old Town

Cultural activities can include, at high tide, an opportunity to weave through the Mangrove channels to visit Takwa ruins on Manda Island where the people of Shela used to live until the 17th century when their wells became salty, and they were forced to ask the people of Lamu for space to live on Lamu island. Takwa can only be reached at high tide, which was the reason for building the town there during a time of fierce fighting among the various clans on the Lamu Archipelago islands.

Alternatively, if the tides are not right visitors can visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Lamu Old Town (and go to Takwa later in the day) which is the oldest continuously inhabited settlement on the Swahili coast. Here it seems time has stood still, where old men in Muslim dress are found in the shade of the trees of the town square playing wooden board games while women clad in black bui-bui’s scuttle to market to purchase the fresh produce that has come in from farms or come out of the sea. The narrow streets are suitable only for donkeys and shade people from even the harshest of midday suns. Here you can visit the impressive Fort in the town square, which was used as prison as recently as the 1980’s, and also the museum which has a fascinating collection of carved Lamu doors from throughout the centuries, each one influenced by the rulers of the time.

There will also be time for beach, swimming, and the possibility to enjoy water sports activities – water skiing, wake boarding or donuting!

Day 3: Water sports and sailing to Kipungani

An early start can be made for those who would like to head out for a spot of deep-sea fishing, where there can be opportunities to catch tuna, snapper, king fish, barracuda.

After breakfast we will hoist the sail and take a long leisurely sail around Lamu island to the other side where Kipungani Village is and a long sandy beach where guests can enjoy beach walks, swimming, and waters sports.

On the low tide there is a lovely snorkelling site just out to sea – a rock called Kinyika – where if you are lucky, you my spot dolphins as you snorkel above coloured corals and plenty of fish. Overnight at Kipungani.

Day 4: Explore Pate Island and arrive at Kiwayu

If the tides were not suitable for Kinyika Rock yesterday, then this can be done this morning, or alternatively another fishing trip, where you get the chance to catch your own lunch.

As the tide comes in the dhow will move back around towards the channels that separates Lamu from the rest of the archipelago, moving north towards Pate Island. As the dhow moves north there is an opportunity for those who enjoy cultural sites to visit the town of Pate.

Pate Island is the largest of the islands in the archipelago and has 8 villages on it, mostly ringing the edges of the island. Pate Town is the largest of them and has a ‘new’ part and the old, ruined part where parts of the old, ruined town can still be seen. There are fewer visitors here and as such the locals will be both happy and surprised to see you. Also on Pate Island is the Fort of Siyu, which is the only fort on the East African Coast built by locals (as opposed to foreign invaders!). It was built to protect the local population from the Omani Arabs who were a presence in the archipelago at the time. Siyu can only be reached at high tide through a mangrove channel from the sea which made it easy to defend and as such it was the last town or village on the coast to be captured or colonised. Of course, nowadays it can be reached by van or motorbike through the sandy island tracks.

Depending on tides and currents we should arrive into Kiwayu at the top of the archipelago by nightfall.

Day 5: Explore, dive and fish Kiwayu

Kiwayu is a beautiful and remote sand and coral island in the Kiunga Marine Park with only 1300 inhabitants living in two small fishing villages.

The leeward side of the island has calm waters ideal for paddle boarding and water skiing. The seaward side of the island has a fabulous 6 km beach with no development on it at all, which is wonderful for walking and beach combing, and there are some stunning snorkelling areas.

Kiwayu is regarded as an excellent sports fishing area so there are more opportunities to get out on the sea and catch dinner! Overnight is spent at the Kiwayu mooring.

Day 6: Discover Kiwayu and remote Kui

Today there are more opportunities for snorkelling and swimming, visiting the small village on Kiwayu island.

For those who wish to venture even further north there is a possibility to take the large fishing boat ‘Express’ to Kui for a picnic lunch in a beautiful and remote part of the archipelago, where you can feel you might be alone in the world!

Day 7: Slow sail back and depart Lamu

After an early breakfast guests head off on a snorkelling trip or a beach walk while the crew gets Tusitiri ready for sailing.

The rest of the day is spent slowly sailing south past Ndau Island and Pate Island, in rhythm with the tides and currents, watching a quiet unspoilt world passing by.

Depending on your departure time, you may be transferred back to the airport by speedboat as the channel separating Manda Island and Lamu Island can only be passed through with the Dhow at high tide, such is her size.

When to Travel

• Dec & Jan: Good snorkelling, fishing, sailing.
• Feb – April: Best for snorkelling, fishing and dolphin watching.
• May – Jul: Closed for rainy months.
• Aug – Nov: Relatively cooler in August (with a chance of rain), good fishing and snorkelling from October, calm and clear in November.